To see an alphabetical site map click here

• Home Improvement Do It Yourself
  Home Improvement Projects -explained in detail. Includes all types of remodeling for homes. Build a deck, remodel a bath, install flooring, carpeting, paint and interior design.
  
  
  • Exterior Painting
    Fortunately, painting the outside of most homes is easier today than ever. Easier... not easy. When the average cost of a professional paint job runs several thousand dollars (though they do earn it), you may want to tackle it yourself. Get started right by investing in one of the many home design software packages available. You can't judge color and finish on a computer monitor. But, it will help you estimate the amount of paint needed, provide a list of materials and assist you in budgeting. Unless you know the effect of a particular paint on your home, try some inexpensive and quick experiments. Buy a pint of your proposed color and finish and try it on a small, out-of-the-way section of the house.
    
    
  • Decks
    Six Tips For Decks Built to Last With only a few dozen deck screws, lag screws, galvanized nails, bolts, joists, posts, braces, flashing, concrete bags, gravel, stain, thinner, drill, level, plumb bob, hammer, measuring tape... you too can build a deck. Sounds complicated already, eh? No one can teach you to build a deck in one page. But here are some tips about how to build a deck that's stronger, lasts longer and gives you the result you want.
    
    
    • Deck Refinishing
      Keeping decks sturdy and looking new is a three step process that can be low cost and require only moderate effort. First, test the condition of your deck by performing a simple test. Drip water from a turkey basting or similar tool onto the surface. If it beads well, refinishing isn't necessary. If it soaks in rapidly, a full treatment is required. Next, get a few different weather reports. Pick a period of a week where you expect moderate temperatures and low humidity. Several drying intervals will be needed. Washing - the critical step Decks wear and weather unevenly. Some areas get heavy foot traffic, others very little. Some parts are exposed to more hours of sunlight, while others are constantly shaded. Those shaded areas often get much less rain, snow and even wind that blows wearing dust across the surface. But it's important to start with a uniform surface, throughly clean and mildew free and prepared to absorb stain or sealer. Some will require only a mild dish detergent wash with a long handled scrub brush, followed by a rinse from the garden hose. Ensure that any debris between the slats is removed. Wash away spider webs, leaves, pebbles and so forth. If a hose isn't adequate a stiff paint brush or putty knife may be needed. For more severely weathered decks, renting a pressure washer is often a low cost, low hassle alternative. Check for ones that deliver at least 1,000 psi of pressure and have nozzles that spray a jet 30 degrees wide or more. Hold the nozzle about 6 inches above the surface and spray slowly in line with the grain, then allow to dry for a few days. If your deck is more than a couple of years old, you will probably want to pre-treat the wood by using a deck cleaner. Despite the wide variety available, simple oxalic acid solutions still do a perfectly good job. Test the cleaner on a non-conspicuous area before treating the entire surface. Again, allow to dry for a couple of days. For stubborn
      
      
  • Floors-Installing a Tile Floor
    Installing a tile floor is one of the more difficult home remodeling projects. But with care, it's within reach of anyone. Start off on the right foot by acquiring one of the many home design software packages. Most will have a section on laying tile. It can't prepare a floor or apply glue, but they're terrific at helping you visualize the result and avoid mistakes. They provide design alternatives, measurement help and tips on dealing with glue, cutting tile and so forth. Choose your tile according to taste, but keep in mind some differences in the options. Stone or slate tiles are beautiful, but generally higher priced than ceramic. They also require sealing after the job is done, in order to prevent staining and make for easy cleaning.
    
    
    • Carpet -Installing Indoor/Outdoor Carpet
      Laying carpet is often one of those projects where paying a professional is worth the cost. But if you have a simple installation, or really want to save the money, here are some guidelines to follow for a professional looking job. Installations will divide neatly into padded or non-padded. Indoor-outdoor carpet doesn't require a pad, while pile carpet usually does. You'll need to start with a smooth, clean surface. Whether the underfloor is concrete or wood, sweep and/or vacuum thoroughly. Check that the area is clear of any nails, screws, etc. Check for any concrete bumps or defects in wood, such as broken boards, etc. Smooth or repair, as needed. For indoor-outdoor installations, get a few weather reports and aim for a period of moderate temperature and low humidity, if possible. Obviously, you don't want to lay carpet outdoors during periods of rain, but temperature and humidity are important, too. Carpet and adhesive materials shouldn't be too cold nor too hot for best results. Excess moisture in the air will make adhesive less effective. Some jobs will require glue, where carpet is subject to very forceful traffic, such as dogs or children sliding or running. Glue is also recommended for fully-exposed outdoor installations. For most cases, double-sided adhesive tape will work fine. Measure the area and lay out a few test rows, before putting down glue or adhesive tape. Some indoor-outdoor carpet comes in rolls, but squares are generally easier to work with. Lay out some 'tiles', starting from the center. Try to arrange the layout so that no less than a 'half-tile' is needed around the perimeter. Lay double-faced tape around the edges of the room first, using long strips (6ft or more, if possible). Within the room area, place tape in the shape of a large 'X' (6in x 6in crossed strips will do), every foot over the entire surface. Leave the paper attached to the upper side of the tape. Starting at the center, remove the tape from a few "X"'s. Press carpet 'tiles' firmly onto the tape, taking care not to twist. If installing in rolls, roll the carpet across a small section then lift and remove the tape. Press firmly down. At the wall, you'll need to cut tiles or rolls to fit. Place a tile firmly along the edge of completed carpet, letting the excess fold up the wall. Take a thin piece of chalk and a straightedge and mark precisely where you need to cut. Using a sharp utility knife cut along the outside of the chalk line. Always cut just slightly larger than the area to be covered, but not enough to cause the carpet to bow upwards. If you're
      
      
    • Moulding-Preparation & Installation
      As with any remodeling project, the first step - and the hardest - is preparation. Surfaces on which moulding is to be installed need to be clean, dry and smooth. The moulding itself may need to be cut, sanded and finished. To prepare the moulding, you'll need a mitre box, a cope saw, clamps and any needed finishing materials along with a box or two of 1/2 inch finishing nails. Mitre boxes come in various shapes and sizes, but they all serve the same purpose: to hold pieces at the correct angle for cutting. Even with pre-molded trim you'll need to make several joint cuts, usually at 45 degree angles. Measure the room carefully, then allow a slight amount extra for losses from cutting. You can always make the piece shorter. Making it longer creates a seam. Pieces will usually be joined at 45 degree angles either at a corner or where a moulding piece doesn't extend the entire length of room. Extra care needs to be taken at corners, where any errors are the most visible and exact joins are hardest to make. There are several ways to help yourself out. One technique involves deliberately making pieces end shortly before the corner. Corners can then be finished with small, pre-made pieces, often rounded. Another option is to make pieces fit as carefully as possible and then fill with wood putty at the corner and sand carefully. Keep in mind that houses are never constructed precisely, nor ever exactly level. Allow for small irregularities. Joining pieces together can be done with finishing nails hammered in near the ends and/or with glue on the joining surfaces. When using nails, be sure to hammer them in at slightly different levels on the adjoining trim pieces. This ensures that you're not hammering a nail on one piece into the nail on the adjoining piece. That can lead to cracking the trim. Trim cracking can occur in any case. Minimize the risk by pressing on the surface with a piece of wood or plastic while nailing. That allows the nail to compress the wood internally, rather than crack outward. A cope
      
      
  • Roof Repair
    Roof repair can be simple and cheap... or you can wait until the damage spreads and you have a condition only a professional can solve - for hundreds of dollars. Damage comes in all forms - cracked tiles, warped or torn shingles, bent flashing - the list is endless. But most of them are a problem for the same reason: the possibility of water damage from a leak. Most damage that leads to a leak doesn't give you any warning. You find out after the water has already started coming in. But you can turn that problem into an asset.
    
    
  • Lighting Your Home
    Thanks to advances in materials science and other techno-wizardry, your lighting design options today are, well, blinding. Any look you want, for any part of the home with any layout is available. Here are some guidelines and choices...
    
    
  • Showers-LeakProof Installation
    Shower installations are tough, no getting around it. Most home remodeling projects require care, but this is one case where even a small error can lead to disaster. Behind-the-wall or under-the-floor leaks can cause increased insect invasions and large repair bills. So, before you decide to undertake it, prepare to commit yourself to nothing less than a first rate job.
    
    
  • Pollution Prevention
    It's easy to read magazines and conclude that your home is a danger to you and your family. But, as anyone can see, people are living longer, healthier lives than ever. Nevertheless, there are real risks associated with some remodeling projects. Some simple precautions can help minimize them.
    
    
  • Hot Tub Installation
    If you've ever installed an outdoor deck and patio and hooked up an indoor dishwasher, you've got the skills needed to install your own hot tub. Depending on the layout of your yard, installation choices vary from a simple gravel and sand pad to a raised platform. You can get help designing your installation from one of the many good home design software packages available. They don't pour concrete, but they'll help you visualize the results, provide measurements and sometimes even contain local building codes.
    
    
  • Alarm Systems
    Few things are as important to most homeowners as the security of his or her home. Fortunately, today there are more options than ever. Here are some tips on how to select one with confidence... Home security systems aren't just hardware, though that's important. A key component of the overall package is the company and people that support the system. Find out about hiring practices. Most security professionals are dedicated, trained personnel. But, unfortunately, it's often difficult to know whether you are dealing with an experienced individual or a newcomer.
    
    
  • Bathroom Remodeling
    Few spaces in the home are as personal, and as practical, as the bathroom. Bathrooms are a place to refresh, re-group and prepare for the coming day. They're also a place to wind down from a day just past and prepare for bed. Serving so many functions, and often for multiple individuals, makes bathroom design a challenge. But it's also an opportunity for tailoring what is often the smallest room in the house to suit the most important needs. First, maximize the space available. Few have the chance to build a bathroom as large as we might want. Even in new home construction, costs often limit how much space can be allotted to the bathroom. But there are usually many pockets of wasted space that can be used to open up floor space and add elbow room.
    
    
  • Kitchen Remodeling
    Apart from possibly the bathroom, kitchens get more traffic from more individuals in most homes than any other room. And, unlike bathrooms, they're one of the most visible. Make your kitchen functional and beautiful on a budget with these simple ideas. For decades, despite their rectangular floor plan, kitchen design planning was based on the idea of a triangle. One person, usually a woman, performed most of the kitchen tasks. Designs centered on making work areas efficient for that one person. Social and technology changes make that idea obsolete. Now, think round. Even when the floor plan is that same old boring rectangle, you can spruce it up by rounding the edges of countertops or adding an island.
    
    
    • Kitchen Cabinets-Installation
      Even beginning do-it-yourself'ers will find that installing kitchen cabinets is do-it-yourself-able. With care, the results can be as fine as any professional job. Here are some tips to achieve that goal. One thing professionals know that most others don't is what tool makes the job easier. With kitchen cabinets there are more choices than you'd suspect. Key to installing cabinets that are level and secure, with low hassle, is to use a support system of some kind. Assuming you don't have two or three people who are willing to stand and hold the cabinet in place for an hour or more, you'll want a support or jack. The people take up more room anyway and would just get in the way. Everything from a standard car jack to specially designed jacks have been used. A simple wooden T-shaped brace will do for some jobs. The tool is nothing more than a horizontal member firmly attached to a vertical one. The cabinet is placed on top and the support wedged firmly underneath. However, they can be subject to slipping, especially on slick floors. Also, unless you use several, the cabinet may wobble or tumble off. But they're inexpensive to make, tall and useful if the base cabinets have not yet been installed. If base cabinets are already in place, take advantage of them and use a couple of short jacks with wide resting areas to support the cabinet while you work. Even tall, metal stain buckets topped by a thick phone book can serve, if you can make the system stable enough. With that problem solved, you'll next need to find studs (2 x 4 support beams) to screw the cabinets into. Never install cabinets into drywall or wood panels alone. Most homes are constructed with studs 16 inches apart. Use an inexpensive, commercial stud finder to locate the first one. Measure 16 inches down the wall and search for the other stud. Try to find the center of each stud for maximum benefit. Mark the stud locations along a line on the wall with a pencil. For easier installation, it might be worthwhile to pre-drill support screw holes. Be sure to use a drill bit smaller than the diameter of the screw. Pre-drill any holes needed in the bottom of cabinets before lifting into place. Those holes may be needed for wiring, under-cabinet lighting fixtures, microwave ovens, paper-towel racks, etc. Make all the necessary measurements on both the wall and the cabinet and hoist the cabinet
      
      
  • Air Conditioning
    Left alone, cool things warm up from their warmer surroundings. Every air cooling system takes advantage of some very interesting laws of physics to reverse this and make your home temperature lower than the outdoors. Fortunately, you don't have to be a scientist to keep that system working well. Here are some simple tips to do just that... The most common AC system problems result from something being at least partially clogged. There are several possible sources for that congestion, but the most common is dirty drain lines. Just like clogged arteries, when your drain line gets filled with material your system will have a 'heart attack'. In this case, the cooling capacity is reduced and sometimes compressors will stop functioning altogether.
    
    
  • Heating Systems
    Home heating systems serve a simple purpose. But to achieve it they employ a surprisingly complicated set of components, some of which are prone to failure. Let's start with the simple and obvious (and cheap!) things first. If you're getting no heat at all out the vent, check the pilot light and circuit breakers. If your system isn't delivering enough heat, check filters first. Filters gradually become blocked with dust, animal hair, etc. They're cheap. Don't bother to wash, which ruins them anyway. Replace. Check that vents are open and unblocked. Don't rely only on what you can see from a standing height. For high vents, get out the ladder and shine a flashlight into the vent. For low vents, get down to the cat's eye level. If the vents are open and unblocked, you'll need to access the attic to check ducts. Many heating system ducts are in plain view on top of ceiling insulation. Check for obvious breaks. Turn on the system, then take a tissue and run it along any joints to check for air movement. If you've ever had mice or rats (not unknown even in very well-to­do developments, especially when constructed near fields), you may have suffered damage. A mouse or rat can chew through a duct in a few minutes. To repair breaks, paradoxically, don't use duct tape. It breaks
    
    
  • Add a Bedroom
    The average cost for a room addition in the U.S. runs between $50,000 and $65,000. You may want to save that outlay by undertaking the effort yourself. But, be prepared. Most room additions should be carried out with the help of professionals. But if you're good with tools and have the time and patience, there are projects that can be completed with minimal help. If you're adding onto an existing home, some parts will definitely require the services of a professional. Amateur builders are simply not equipped to lay foundations, deal with complex zoning or permit issues, and the like. But, if your project is simpler you may be able to carry it out yourself. Converting an attic to an additional bedroom is within the ability of most who have some experience with home projects. Converting a closet is usually even simpler. Dividing an existing room into two can sometimes be carried out in a few weekends. First, look online for one of the many 'plans' sites. Room plans are often available for anywhere from $10-$100, often toward the lower end of that estimate. Shop around and ask for samples, since some are as simple as a few sketches containing ideas, while others have complete blueprints and plans. Measure the space and decide whether you will be adding walls - such as a divider for an existing room - or tearing some down. Get estimates for 2 x 4's, panels, moulding, screws and nails, etc and form a budget. One plan for dividing an existing room, for example, is simplicity itself. It uses a homosote panel - a kind of pressboard in service for over 100 years - held between strips of moulding. The panel is placed along a line to divide the room and held in place at the top with double-sided tape or L-braces screwed into studs. Some materials provide soundproofing as effective as ordinary plaster drywall. Next up in the
    
    
  • Basement-Remodeling
    Remodeling your basement presents several challenges, which can all be turned into advantages. Here's how... Basements can be cold. Easily solved by turning the latest rage - radiant floor heating - on its side. The grids used underneath tile or wood floors can, with very little adaptation, be hung rather than laid. The proper glue or nailing around the edges (avoiding the wire mesh, of course!), can make these systems easy to use as radiant wall heaters. Placed behind wood wall panels they operate essentially the same as floor systems, if there's air movement in the room. Naturally, any water leakage or moisture problems will need to be dealt with first. Basements can be dark. But that makes them perfect for a darkroom or home entertainment center. If used for a darkroom, you'll need to plan for proper ventilation and cold/hot water plumbing. You'll also need to plan for partitioning, unless you can guarantee no one will open the basement entrance during those critical moments. A home entertainment center provides a number of opportunities for creativity. Inexpensive kits today offer a half dozen speakers which can be placed at acoustically advantageous spots for that true theater experience. You'll want to investigate materials for sound control. Acoustic ceiling and wall tile or wall hangings, non-shag carpet and so forth will all be necessary. Wood floors and walls are attractive, but provide too 'live' an environment for home music or theater systems. You'll also want to plan the proper lighting system. Track lighting is popular, but difficult to place to keep glare off the screen. Think about building some reflective shelves or sconces, with bounced light off of light wood or metal, make for good alternatives. Not everyone prefers watching movies in complete darkness. Basements can be wet. Too much seepage can present a hazard and no amount of creativity can turn that to advantage. But, within limits, a moist environment can be a good thing for certain uses - saunas or greenhouses for example. To plan a sauna, you'll need to investigate current options for hot-water plumbing and steam generation. Several modular systems are available in a variety of price ranges. Drainage is key, since water build up has to be dealt with. Fortunately, though basements can be cool, since they're enclosed they're generally easy to keep hot once warmed up. Good insulation is key. Cork works well, but can accumulate mold. There are dozens of modern materials with low heat conductivity available. Proper partitioning can keep the actual sauna area small, while a tiled area can be used for cooling down or toweling off. Paint in warm colors, but allow plenty of time for complete drying. Greenhouses are easy to make in most basements. Though care has to be taken to control mold and mildew, inexpensive heating lamps can provide both warmth and light for growing orchids and other 'hot-house' flowers. Extra care has to be observed in planning electrical systems to control water contact. Luckily, modern materials for wrapping under-floor pipes and running wiring through conduit are light-weight and inexpensive. Whatever you plan to design, be sure to get one of the low-cost devices for measuring radon gas (very seldom a problem, despite hype in the media) and carbon monoxide levels. Proper ventilation is critical for comfort and health. Take advantage of antique stores, old school remodeling projects and other sources to obtain interesting floors, wall coverings and decorative items. You'd be surprised by what can be picked up for little or no money. With the average cost of basement remodeling running around $35,000, what better way to turn that problem around?
    
    
  • Contractors-Choose Wisely
    Home Improvement - Do It Yourself -A good contractor earns every dime you pay them, a bad contractor will take every dime you have. There are several reasons good contractors make good incomes. They work hard over many years to acquire a wide set of useful skills. Good contractors almost always started as workmen of one kind or another - carpenter, plumber, electrician, you name it. They know first hand what it takes to become skilled in those trades. They know by sight what constitutes work well done and when a job was completed poorly. Beyond that, they learn to be good businessmen as well. Many may not have accounting and finance skills, but they know how to hire well. They know how to bid a job fairly and how to manage sub-contractors and workmen fairly and firmly. That's the kind you're looking for. They're out there. If you could get recommendations from friends and family about a reliable, competent contractor you wouldn't be reading this. So what to do beyond that? To find one, start with common sense guidelines. Ask for references. Hiring a contractor is an expensive proposition and this is no time to be shy. Automatic, unfounded suspicion will poison any business relationship at the outset. But good contractors aren't sensitive about providing names and phone numbers for satisfied former clients. They know that referrals are the lifeblood of their business. Once you have them, check them. Prepare a list of questions about the size and complexity of the previous project. Ask about the initial budget and schedule and whether they were met. It sounds intrusive, but most people will share that information gladly. They, too, know that a good contractor is golden. They know it's in their interest also to see that person succeed. That way, the next time they need those services he (or she, many are female these days) will still be in business. You're perfectly free to take risks. You're not required (at least for some projects) to hire a licensed contractor. Some unlicensed contractors are skilled and reliable professionals who simply prefer to do business 'under the radar'. But the odds are against you in that case, especially if the person is a stranger. Ask for the license number and use it, along with the business and contractor's names to check the Better Business Bureau and other local business groups. Check with city and state agencies to see if there are any complaints or actions pending. Most contractors are honest and some of those still find themselves subject to legal action. Clients, too, can be dishonest and ask for something they've no right to. But, proceed
    
    
• Links